Kitchen Cabinet Installation - Step-By-Step Instructions on How to Install Kitchen Cabinets Yourself

Now that you have your new kitchen cabinets, you are ready to move on to the next big step.....Installing your kitchen cabinets. While the actual installation of the Kitchen Cabinets isn'tall that hard, the critical first step is measuring and marking out where the cabinets will go. By placing layout markings on the walls and floors, it will not only help you with kitchen cabinet placement and stud locations, but it will also help you locate where adjustments and shims will be required. Before we get started there are a couple of items that you will need for the project:

Pencil

Level or Laser Level

Drill

Tape Measure

Stud Finder

Clamps

1" x 3" Piece of lumber (6'-8' in length) or an Inverted U-shaped frame (see notes below)

Shims

Screws (long enough to go 1 1/2 into the studs)

Utility knife or chisel

Marking Compass

An extra set of hands (you may have to bribe one of your friends)

As I mentioned above, you have the option of using a piece of 1' x 3' lumber for the installation or building a frame to support the cabinets (I have included a picture of a sample frame below). This can be made out of 2' x 4's and should be tall enough to support the bottom of your wall cabinets. If you plan on installing more than one kitchen, then I would suggest the frame, but a piece of lumber will do just fine if this is a one time event. In either case, you will need another set of hands to help with the installation.

In this case we bought (RTA) Ready-To-Assemble Kitchen Cabinets from RTA Kitchen & Bathroom Cabinet Store. Now the kitchen cabinets are assembled, we are ready to start marking out our layout lines. Some people start with the base cabinets, but we are going to start with the wall cabinets first. There is no right or wrong way to start, I just prefer to start with the upper cabinets first.

1. Use a level and a pencil to draw a parallel line across the wall about 3 inches up from the floor. Measure down from this line, to the floor, and find the floors high point (if it has one), and mark a line at that point. From that high point, Measure up 34 1/2 inches and draw a level line across the wall to designate the top of the base cabinets.

2. Now that you have the top of the base cabinets marked, measure up another 19 1/2 inches and a level line across the wall to indicate the bottom of the wall cabinets. Lightly mark each cabinets' dimensions and placement on the wall to make sure that your original layout is correct.

3. Use a stud finder to locate the wall studs. Use a pencil to mark the stud locations at least 6 inches above and below the line for the bottom of the wall cabinets. Draw straight vertical lines between the top and bottom marks to indicate the center of the studs.

4. If you decided to go with the piece of 1' x 3' lumber, now is where you will use (if you decided to go with the U-shaped frame, it will come into play after all your lines are laid out). Screw a temporary 1' x 3' support rail to the wall, aligning the top edge of the rail with the line for the bottom edge of the wall cabinets. Attach it by driving 3 or 4 two inch screws through the rail into the wall studs.

5. Now that we have all the lines marked, it is time to start installing your kitchen cabinets. We are going to start with the corner cabinet (here is where your helper's extra set of hands will be needed). Place the corner cabinet onto the temporary support rail and have your helper hold the corner cabinet in place. Drill pilot holes through the sturdy cabinet back or its support rail and into the wall studs. Screw the cabinet into the wall using two screws that are long enough to penetrate the studs by at least 1 1/2 inches. Check the top of the cabinet for level and the front of the cabinet for plumb. If you have to correct the position, just back the screws out a little bit and top shims behind the cabinet at the stud locations. If it is plumb and level, drive the screws all the way in and add several more into each stud to ensure that the cabinet is secured tightly to the wall.

6. Now we are going to move onto the cabinets on either side of the corner cabinet. As you install each one, use the clamps to secure each cabinet to the neighboring cabinet and then check it for plumb with your level. On faceframe cabinets, it is a good idea to drill two 1/8 inch pilot holes through the sides of the faceframe and use screws. In this case, with frameless, ready-to-assemble kitchen cabinets we are going to screw thru the plywood sides and use shims in between the cabinets to ensure a tight fit and make sure that the cabinet faces are plumb.

7. After all the wall cabinets are in place, install the corner or end base case cabinet. Use shims where needed to level the cabinet and raise it up to the line which indicates the high point of the floor. Be sure it is level from front to back and from side to side, then screw it to the wall studs. If you don't have a diagonal corner cabinet or blind base cabinet in the corner, push the adjoining cabinet into place and clamp the two units together. Add a filler strip if needed to allow the doors and drawers enough clearance to open and close properly. If necessary, tap shims under the cabinet and behind it to adjust for plumb and level.

8. Drive screws through the cabinet back (and shims) into the wall studs. Trim any excess material from the shims with a sharp chisel or knife. Continue to add adjoining cabinets in this manner, joining them the same way you connected the wall cabinets in step 6.

9. If your cabinets end up butting against another wall, you may need a filler strip to make up the last few inches. If you have custom cabinets, they should have been built to fill this gap, but if you are using stock or RTA Kitchen Cabinets the filler strip may be needed. If you do need to use a filler strip, leave the last cabinet detached from the other cabinets. Clamp a straightedge to the face of the nearest installed unit, extending far enough for you to put alignment marks on the end wall. Allow a 3/4" offset behind those marks (for the thickness of the filler piece) and fasten a cleat to the wall. Then install and fasten the last cabinet and measure the gap between its face frame and the wall.

If the wall is flat, simply rip the filler board to the required width and fasten it in place. If the wall is irregular, you'll have to scribe-fit the filler board. Start by setting a marking compass to the width of the gap, then place a strip of 1"-wide masking tape along the filler board in the area where it needs to be trimmed. Clamp the board to the end cabinet's face frame, then trace the wall contour with the compass. Remove the board and cut along the scribe line with a jig saw, then reinstall it to check the fit. When it's right, drive screws through the adjacent face frame into the edge of the filler board. Screw or nail the other side to the cleat.

At this point, your kitchen cabinet installation is complete. If you purchased matching crown molding or any other details, these should be easily installed now. Depending on whether you had to use shims under the base cabinets, you may have to install some trim pieces by the toe kicks to cover up the shims or any gaps at the bottom of the kitchen cabinets.

I hope this helps make your kitchen cabinet installation as smooth as possible. If you need any help with cabinet selection, kitchen layout tips, or ideas for cabinet styles, check out RTA Kitchen & Bathroom Cabinet Store

New Kitchen Cabinets - Can You Really Install Them Yourself?

Kitchen renovation... can you really do it yourself? With all of the home improvement shows on cable, they make it look like even the novice can renovate their kitchen.. but can you really do it on your own?

I started doing kitchen renovations over 15 years ago, and I can honestly say that each one feels like the first one. While installing new kitchen cabinets may seem like a big project, it really isn't as hard as it sounds. When it comes to installing new kitchen cabinets, preparation is the key. By properly preparing the kitchen, a cabinet installation can go very smoothly.

Whether you are gutting a kitchen or starting with new construction, preparation will be the key to success. Some installers like to start with the wall cabinets, and others like to start with the base cabinets.. in either case, you want to assess how level the floors are and how flush the walls are. Again, whether it is new construction or century old craftsmanship, you will have to shim some of the cabinets to make sure they are level and flush. By creating a level surface to start with and a flush wall, it will ensure that you kitchen cabinet installation will occur without any problems.

Over the years, I have developed a technique for installing kitchen cabinets. Even though I start by installing the wall cabinets, I will measure them based upon the level mark of the base cabinets. By coming up with a level line across the wall, you can measure up the space that you want to have between the upper and lower kitchen cabinets (the industry standard is 19" but that can be adjusted according to ceiling space and desired countertop space).

Regardless of the technique, the type of kitchen cabinets you select will dictate whether or not you can tackle the installation on your own. Most of the big name manufacturers will require professional installation in order or the warranty to apply. This is simply a way of ensuring business for their network of installers. If you are really looking for a cabinet that you can not only install yourself, but also assemble yourself, the best bet would be RTA Cabinets. RTA Kitchen Cabinets are the same quality (if not better) as the name brand cabinets, with the distinction of coming ready-to-assemble. The advantage to this is that you have hundreds, if not thousands, from the labor of assembling your kitchen cabinets.

So if you are looking for a kitchen cabinet line that you can install yourself, there are plenty on the market that will accommodate your needs. Do a quick search on-line and you will have hundreds of distributors that can save you thousands on new kitchen cabinets.

Kitchen Cabinet Installation - Step-by-step instructions for installing kitchen cabinets yourself

Now that you have your new kitchen cabinets, you are ready to take the next big thing ..... Install kitchen cabinets. Although the actual installation of kitchen isn'tall so hard, the first step is measuring and marking where the cabinets will go. Paste the layout on the walls and floors, you will not only with the inclusion of kitchen cabinets and places of significance to help, but also help to identify the siteBe adjustments and shims will be required. Before the start there are a few items needed for the project:

Pencil

Level or laser level

Drill

Tape Measure

Stud Finder

Pliers

1 "x 3" piece of wood (6'-8 'long) or an inverted U-shaped frame (see note below)

Wedges

Screw (long enough to 1 1 / 2 in the columns)

Knife or scissors

Marking Compass

Some additionalHands (May be you need to bribe one of your friends)

As I said, you can support a piece of 1 "x 3" wood for the installation or construction of a framework for the cabinets (which I have a photo of a frame below) included. This can be done from 2 ft x 4 and should be large enough to support the underside of the cabinets. If you want to install more than one kitchen, I recommend a setting, but a piece of wood is not very good ifis a one-time event. In both cases, you will need a number of other hands to help with the installation.

In this case we have (RTA) Ready-to-assembly furniture kitchen kitchen and bathroom RTA Cabinet Store. Now the kitchen cabinets is to be assembled, we are ready to begin our slogan layout. Some people start with the cabinets, but we are the first built-in wardrobes. There is no right or wrong way to start, I prefer to startfrom the first upper cabinets.

1. Use a level and a pencil to draw a parallel line through the wall about 3 cm from the ground. Measure yourself from this line on the floor and find the plans on the number (if any), and mark a line there. Measure from that date up to up 34 1 / 2 inches and a horizontal line across the wall show the top of the cabinet base.

2. Now you have marked the top of the cabinet at a lowerspecifying any other 19 1 / 2 inches and a line level of the entire wall to the bottom of the cabinets. A little 'size of the individual brands and firms on the wall to ensure that the original layout is correct.

3. Use a stud finder to find studs in the wall. Use a pencil to the stud locations, at least 6 inches above and below the bottom line of cabinets to highlight it. Draw straight vertical lines between the marks at the top and bottom place in the middlePads.

4. If you use the piece of 1 going to decide 'x 3' wood now is where you have (if you chose to use, in order to separate U-shape, into the game after all rows are displayed). Wall screw a length of temporary assistance 1 'x 3', aligning the top edge of the line with the lower edge of the roof. With the leadership of 3 or 4 two-inch screws through the rail into the wall studs Connect.

5. Now that we have all the sharp lines isTime to make the installation kitchen cabinets. We will start with the corner cupboard (the hands together, where additional support will be needed). Place the furniture in the corner on the parapet of a temp and ask your assistant to the cabinet in the corner to keep in position. Previous pilot holes through the sturdy housing, or his support and guide pins wall. Screw the cabinet to the wall with two screws that are long enough to penetrate the nailat least 1 1 / 2 inches. Check the top of the cabinet at the stage and lead the first of the government. If you need to correct the position, behind the screws a bit and keep the field behind the positions Stud If it explore and level, tighten the screws and add a lot more in each plot to ensure that The Cabinet is firmly fixed to the wall.

6. Now we want to offices on both sides of the cabinet in the corner. AsInstall each of them, use tongs to ensure that all cabinets to ensure the next room, then check for the Lot with your level. Faceframe closets, is a good idea to drill two 1 / 8 inch holes on the driver's side used the faceframe and screws. In this case, with frameless, ready to assemble kitchen cabinets, we'll go to the pages of plywood and use shims between the cabinet screw to a custom fit and make sure that the company faces arelead.

7. After all the wall cabinets are in place, install the corner or the base case casing finish. Use shims if necessary, increase in the company and the line that marks the highest point on the floor. Be sure that it is just from front to back and side to side, then screw on the wall studs. If you do not have a closet or diagonal corner cabinet in the blind spot, move to the next room and hold together the two units. Adding a group to fill, if necessary, open doors and drawers for plenty of space and to close properly. If necessary, tap shims under the cabinet, and back to reflect and lead the level.

8. Drive screws through the back of the case holding (s) in wall studs. Remove excess material from the shims with a chisel or a knife. Continue to add adjoining cabinets in this way, membership in the same way as the roof connected to continue with step 6.

9. If yourBoxing> at the end pushing against another wall, you can fill up a group to have logged offset in recent years. If you have custom cabinets, built should have been filled to this gap, but if you have kitchen cabinets or RTA band filling may be necessary. If there is no need for a strip of filling, leaving the company by other companies use clever. Insert a rule to the nearest unit installed, which stretches enough for you to be oriented to face contactSign on the wall. Allow 3 / 4 offset "behind these brands (for the thickness of the piece of input), and add a clamp on the wall. Then install and secure the last cabinet and measure the distance between the frame and the wall.

If the wall is flat, simply unpack the Board of Directors to the required width, and fill it securely in power. If the wall is illegal, Scribe-Fit board filling. Start by using a compass to mark the width of the gap, then a strip 1 inch wideTape on the edge of the filling in the region where you have to be reduced. Set on the Council to meet at the end of the Council of Ministers, and then the border wall increase with the compass. Remove the paper and cut along the scribe with a saw, you install it again to verify the adjustment. When right is drive screws through the adjacent structure in the side of the filling. Nail or screw the other side of the terminal.

At this point complete the installation of kitchen cabinet is. If you purchasedaccording to the crown molding or other details, should now be easily installed. If you need the shims under the base cabinets, you may need to install to cut some pieces to travel the kick on the foot holds or omissions from the lower kitchen cabinets.

I hope this helps to make the installation of kitchen smoothly as possible. If you need help choosing a wardrobe, kitchen layout tips and ideas for styles of the cabinet, kitchen visit RTACabinet Store & Bath

The chimney Do It Yourself - Style gel ventless

Fireplaces somehow become my specialty. I started with the development of housing, construction of bridges and integrated projects. But I have begun, with some very interesting projects that I discovered after coming stove fireplace insert ventless gel fireplace. You can literally nothing when these two things.

One evening I received a call from a friend of mine in West Virginia. He had an idea for a fireplace and knew exactly where he wanted. He liked my ideaCase ventless gel and a job should actually do it yourself. I have plans, and took to see what he meant.

It 'was a beautiful log cabin in the mountains. E 'condition with hardwood floors, cedar board and masonry in the interior. But outside was his natural appearance Log Cabin in love, when you holiday in the Appalachian Mountains. This rustic look that makes you want to stay and never leave.

When he finally arrived,We chatted a bit and I had an idea of what he thought. Then he showed me the corner where he liked the place. I looked at a picture that I have and I immediately had the idea.

Wanted fireplace ventless gel, but wanted to specialize an agreement. The chimney, designed in a corner to sit in a corner and had a tree along the ceiling. He said he wanted it made of cement, and I knew I had to do.

I can not sayenough, but the design of your fireplace ventless gel is very easy and also fun. You get the experience without the mess of fire, smoke or sparks. But it is not necessarily equipped to build a stack or chimney. And I could not understand why he wants it that way. When you see the beauty of the country and the walls were, one could also understand that he wanted to destroy anything. Has just completed a chimney.

I was on the phone to the goods and wassurprised to see the bottom line. Is that not at any price when things my way. I say it now, and will likely hear from me again, but it's not something frightens you. There is a simple solution to everything.

Your stove and chimney, was delivered to him in a week. When I heard what happened, I did finish another trip to West Virginia to the contract. He was really surprised when he learned that it would stackreceived in a single day.

The first work in the construction of the fire was started at the border. In developing the device, I use two different types of materials. Firewood itself and head of the tree to the ceiling.

The frame is made of wood to take home and inserts. I'm not afraid to a wooden frame, when I know that I will get a fireplace gel ventless fireplace and add build within. The safestFireplace solution at all, I have nothing to fear.

The timber frame will gather in a corner in the corner. It is a technical term for what they should sit and how to measure angles, but I'm sure you know what I mean. If you try to tell me something like that, digital equipment works best. Digital speakers and a digital level, jointly used, the angle that you need.

The image of the structure was not so difficult. The wires used to create a structure that was forwarded toCover. Then I have a fence to play something, if I was willing to give to create the tree. Here's the kicker!

I've always said that the project will see and not be overwhelmed. The search for a simple solution for every problem. Instead of using the cement, as he wanted, I spoke in an easier and cheaper solution. I caught a drywall compound and I have my client a tree. It's been so easy.

The wire keeps the mixture into force until it has dried.I thought it was really good when it was over. Has a rough surface to it as a model in plaster on the ceiling. But my client wanted a smooth surface. And he got the sandpaper.

And all it took my clients a fireplace he had in mind to build. In fact, he said that is exactly what I had imagined. I just said, and I say again, look at how a project is easy. Nothing is too difficult. Do not leave work, because everything can be overcomeIn fact, if we are to solve.

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